Time Out for Birthday

Sequoia: Celebrated my birthday by going to a trendy restaurant on the tip of Zamalek Island overlooking the Nile. If it hadn't been for the shishas and hijabs, it could have been Hawaii–palm trees, Japanese lanterns, sushi (if you wanted it). Affluent, young, tolerant Egyptians: A very cosmopolitan–on the younger side–crowd was visible. Mike and I had margaritas. His entrée was molokhiya (a green leafy vegetable and staple of the Egyptian diet since the time of the pharaohs, it is chopped finely with garlic and coriander stewed in a broth), roast chicken, and rice. I had grilled kofta. The Arabic (pita) bread here was exceptional. Dinner was followed by dessert and tea steeped in fresh mint. Looking westward the Nile was narrower and faced Imbaba on the opposite shore; eastward the river widens with Shubra and Bulaq and lighted high-rise towers in the distance. Revelers: Zamalek island itself was packed with Egyptians celebrating Eid. The crowds really started to turn out by 10:00 PM. If every taxi ride in Cairo seems like an action-packed film, this was such a movie times two. On our return trip, the driver took every back street detour he knew of, got caught in a jam on one bridge, so almost immediately took off for another. We thought at first the price he asked for was a little high. However, in such circumstances and on such a night, he deserved it.

Facing west bank of Nile toward Imbaba. Pictures difficult because of the contrasts. Saw many lighted river boats with merry makers plying the waters.

Overlooking east bank of Nile with tall towers, Shubra, Bulaq, and the farthest south, Tahrir in the background.