Egyptian Museum

Museum:After 43 years, I have made my second trip to the Egyptian Museum, which contains the world's most extensive collection of pharaonic antiquities.The contents of the museum date from the Prehistoric Period of Egypt to the end of the Roman era. It's always amazing. The ground floor has a massive statue pair of Amenhotep III and his wife Tiye as its focus as you enter. If you've read Naquib Mahfouz's Akhenaten, you'll know who they are–the parents of the heretic pharaoh Akhenaten (Amarna) of the 18th Dynasty (who ruled for 17 years). Akhenaten's "great king's wife" was Nefertiti; and they had six daughters. His display was great. Akhenaten raised the Aten to the position of "sole god," represented as a disk with rays of light terminating in hands which reach out to the royal family, sometimes offering the hieroglyphic sign for life. Akhenaten and his family are frequently shown worshipping the Aten or simply indulging in everyday activities beneath the disk.

Tutankhamun: The most popular of the museum’s treasures are housed in the Tutankhamun gallery on the upper floor. These fascinating artifacts (3,000 pieces) from the boy-king’s tomb were discovered by Howard Carter in 1922. These include the shrines and tomb furniture, which are definitely the main attraction of the museum. The famous gold funerary mask and coffin as well as other objects are on display elsewhere. Tutankhamun was nine years old when he became pharaoh and reigned for approximately ten years.

In historical terms, Tutankhamun's significance stems from his rejection of the radical religious innovations introduced by his predecessor and father, Akhenaten. Secondly, his tomb in the Valley of the Kings was discovered by Carter almost completely intact—the most complete ancient Egyptian royal tomb ever found. The Weight of Centuries: It's truly amazing that traces from a civilization so old survive today! The museum was filled mainly with Egyptians, of which there were many. Only a few foreign tourists were visible. The place was very warm and airless. Many objects had only numbers and no labels. Labels were hand-typed, so are quite aged. Some large statues and sarcophagi on the lower floor were still in plastic wrapping, giving the area the appearance of a storage area. Maybe all the dust and old storage areas helped me imagine the weight of centuries or millennia. The museum is open from 9 AM to 6 PM; but it's really too much to take in on one day.

Time Out for Birthday

Sequoia: Celebrated my birthday by going to a trendy restaurant on the tip of Zamalek Island overlooking the Nile. If it hadn't been for the shishas and hijabs, it could have been Hawaii–palm trees, Japanese lanterns, sushi (if you wanted it). Affluent, young, tolerant Egyptians: A very cosmopolitan–on the younger side–crowd was visible. Mike and I had margaritas. His entrée was molokhiya (a green leafy vegetable and staple of the Egyptian diet since the time of the pharaohs, it is chopped finely with garlic and coriander stewed in a broth), roast chicken, and rice. I had grilled kofta. The Arabic (pita) bread here was exceptional. Dinner was followed by dessert and tea steeped in fresh mint. Looking westward the Nile was narrower and faced Imbaba on the opposite shore; eastward the river widens with Shubra and Bulaq and lighted high-rise towers in the distance. Revelers: Zamalek island itself was packed with Egyptians celebrating Eid. The crowds really started to turn out by 10:00 PM. If every taxi ride in Cairo seems like an action-packed film, this was such a movie times two. On our return trip, the driver took every back street detour he knew of, got caught in a jam on one bridge, so almost immediately took off for another. We thought at first the price he asked for was a little high. However, in such circumstances and on such a night, he deserved it.

Facing west bank of Nile toward Imbaba. Pictures difficult because of the contrasts. Saw many lighted river boats with merry makers plying the waters.

Overlooking east bank of Nile with tall towers, Shubra, Bulaq, and the farthest south, Tahrir in the background.

Eid al-Adha

Serious: Today is the day most animals are slaughtered for the Feast of the Sacrifice. It became real as I saw two lifeless cows sprawled across a sidewalk from the window of my taxi. I thought it would be a good day to go to the big market, since most people would be home with their families for the holiday. During coffee break at the nearby hotel, people were visiting and dressed in their best. Parents were proudly taking pictures of their children wearing fancy, new clothes. Two young girls were especially charming with glittery dresses, ruffled anklets, and headbands holding back their long tresses. As I walked home in the early evening, I saw a heap of wool hides (still dirty and bloody) at an intersection waiting to be picked up. Outside the butcher shop, three sheep's heads were lined up for sale. Contiguously, customers were watching a butcher, wielding a wide-blade (presumably sharp) knife, bring it to bear–loudly and forcefully–on a piece on the chopping block. Muslims celebrate the feast over three to four days.

Rain in Cairo

Moderate, Short Rain: On October 25, Al Ahram Online reported: "Moderate rains and lightning brought traffic to a halt in Cairo on Wednesday. The rains came a day before the start of the four-day Eid al-Adha holiday." Rain in Cairo is like snow in Washington, DC. When it happens, people appear so startled they don't know what to do. I was at a a nearby apartment having dinner with friends. The rain came maybe about 6:30 PM and lasted all of 5 minutes. There was thunder and Nazli (Rizk) did see a flash of lightning out her apartment window. When I walked home, the streets were wet with a few very small puddles. That was it. Does make for a bit of excitement, however. Over the next two days, all of the stalls I see around town filled with goats and sheep (some cows) will be empty. They will have been sacrificed for the Feast of the Sacrifice. The meat is shared with family and the poor. Egyptians eat and give away a lot of meat during this "solemn" celebration. [Photo is: Light Rain in Cairo, Egypt, by Bakar 88.]

Muslim Brotherhood

Brotherhood: Finally went to, and found, the largest organization in Egypt. Its headquarters is way out in Moqattam, an affluent suburb of Cairo. While there is less traffic, roads aren't paved out to the edge making for a lot of dust. Hardly any greenery; like there are only small new trees in our new subdivisions. Once I got there, I wasn't turned away. Now that their political party is in power, they no doubt have a certain amount of confidence. Gone are the Nasser days, when they were jailed and executed. They have been known to have a secret wing. It wouldn't be obvious, of course, where it is today. I asked for some interviews and was told to call and come back the following Wednesday.

Dinner and Rain: Dinner at Nazli Rizk's; her apartment is about three blocks from mine. She invited some friends associated with St. Andrew's Church. Her cluttered abode is filled with Victorian style furniture and family photos dating back at least a couple of generations. Most of it looks like it has not been moved, since it was put in place. Was amazing to hear thunder (Nazli saw lightning) and hear rain for a few minutes. Salad was accompanied by baked dishes: cauliflower, burghal with chopped meat, and scalloped potatoes. I had some teas I had never tried before: tamarind and cinnamon sprinkled with sesame. Dessert was fruit and a tray of pastries I had brought.

Ḥizb Al-Ḥurriya wal-’Adala حزب الحرية والعدالة

Party Headquarters: I found the headquarters of the Freedom and Justice Party, which is not that far from me. This party, an Islamist political party, is that of Egypt's current president and made up most of the membership of the People's Assembly, before it was disbanded. The party is nominally independent, but has strong links to the Muslim Brotherhood of Egypt, the largest and best-organized political group in Egypt. I had tea with a party representative with promises of an interview with a female member. Hopefully, it will happen before too long–the Eid formally starts in two days; but some people are beginning travel plans or family festivities sooner.

Eid al-Adha, عيد الأضحى‎, or Feast of the Sacrifice: This is an important religious holiday celebrated by Muslims worldwide to honor the willingness of Abraham to sacrifice his son, Ishmael, as an act of obedience to God, before God interceded to provide him with a sheep to sacrifice instead. Across the world Muslims celebrate the holiday by sacrificing an animal, which is then shared with family, friends and others in the community. In Cairo, thousands of Muslims attend a prayer service early in the morning before heading home to prepare for the feast later in the day. Around the city in preparation, the slaughtering of animals, mostly sheep, goats and cows, becomes a public event outside butcher shops and homes. The Eid al-Adha begins in the evening of Thursday, October 25, and ends in the evening of Friday, October 26. However, the Fulbright office will be closed beginning October 23, reopening only on October 30. Egypt's publicly-owned banks and stock exchange are to close for four days to mark the Eid al-Adha holiday, closing on Thursday, October 25, and reopening the following Monday, October 29.

Freedom and Justice Party newspaper office on Al Manyal (Rhoda) Island, where I went first. Got served hibiscus tea, my favorite.

Shop that covers the meat (rare); usually the loins are left to hang stripped and bare in the open air.

الإسكندرية Alexandria

Library: Here I am overlooking the reading room of the famous Alexandria Library. It was built in the 3rd century BC and served as a major center of scholarship, until the Roman conquest of Egypt in 30 BC. The first known state-funded library of its kind to gather a serious collection of books from beyond its country's borders, the library at Alexandria was instructed to collect all the world's knowledge. Accounts of its destruction vary. Intended both as a commemoration and an emulation of the original, the Bibliotheca Alexandrina was inaugurated in 2002 near the site of the old library.

Alexandria: The second largest city in Egypt, Alexandria has an atmosphere that is more Mediterranean than Middle Eastern; its ambiance and cultural heritage distance it from the rest of the country, although it is only 135 mi. from Cairo. Since the 19th century, Alexandria assumed a new role as a focus for Egypt's commercial and maritime expansion. This Alexandria has been immortalized by writers such as E.M. Forster and Cavafy (visited apartment). Generations of immigrants from Greece, Italy and the Levant settled here and made the city synonymous with commerce, cosmopolitanism, and bohemian culture. Lawrence Durrell described it as "The capital city of Asiatic Europe, if such a thing could exist." The city today is seeking to regain its cosmopolitan past.

Outside of Alexandria Library. Façade has words in 120 languages. Complex also includes museums, a conference hall and planetarium.

Historical sketch of Alexandria Lighthouse in museum. The city's status as a beacon of culture was symbolized by Pharos, the legendry lighthouse that was one of the Seven Wonders of the World. Its remains are now under water. The lighthouse has inspired Chicago waterfront architecture.

Sketch of Pompey's Pillar (from museum display), a Roman triumphal column. It is one of the largest ancient monoliths and one of the largest monolithic columns ever erected. Erroneously dated to the time of Pompey, the Corinthian column was actually built in 297 AD, commemorating the victory of Roman emperor Diocletian over an Alexandrinian revolt.

Square building on jetty is a fort at the location, where the famous Pharos Lighthouse used to stand.

Painting from museum art exhibit that reminded me of the Southwest.

St. Mark's Coptic Orthodox Cathedral is said to stand on the site of the church founded by St. Mark the Evangelist in 60 AD.

Burial place of Evangelist Mark's head at St. Mark's Church. According to tradition, St. Mark was arrested during a festival of Serapis in 68 AD and martyred by being dragged through the streets. He was buried under the church he had founded. Serapis was an invented god, a combination of several Egyptian and Hellenistic deities who was introduced during the reign of Ptolemy I as a bridge between Greek and Egyptian religious beliefs. In 828, the body of St. Mark was stolen from the Alexandrian church by Venetians to be enshrined in St. Mark's Basilica in Venice. However, the head of the saint remained in Alexandria. Every newly-appointed Patriarch of Alexandria begins his service with holding the holy head of St. Mark in his lap and changing its cloth shroud. This will happen when a new Coptic pope is chosen in November.

Alexandria Opera House or Muhammad Ali Theatre is stunning. Names of great European composers grace the gold ornamented ceiling.

Fancy store front gives idea of city's past splendor. Ancient Alexandria declined. When Napoleon landed in 1798, he found a sparsely populated fishing village of 5,000 inhabitants. Its fortunes rose under Muhammad Ali and his heirs and in the commercial importance the city gained in the 19th century, when the city became home to a cosmopolitan elite.

Whirling Sufi Dancers

Wikalet al-Ghouri: The Wikalet al-Ghouri in Islamic Cairo was built in the 16th Century by Qansuh al-Ghouri, a Mamluk sultan. A wikala was a warehouse and merchants hostel. Functionally it provided shelter for traveling merchants coming from all countries to trade in Cairo. Carefully restored, it is now a cultural center. There is a marble fountain in the middle of the courtyard. The combination of dark mashrabiyya windows overlooking the courtyard from the top floor, and the striped marble building materials, makes it an impressive structure.

Al-Tonoura Troupe: This group performs Sufi folkloric dances, which I attended October 17, Wednesday evening, at Wikalet al-Ghouri. The dancers spin in place, whipping their brightly coloured skirts into a mesmeriaing kaleidoscope of patterns. At the end of the dance, they simply walk off without a waver, as if they haven’t just been spinning around in a circle for ages. It’s dizzying just watching them! Wikalet al-Ghouri is just behind al-Azhar Mosque, approximately opposite Khan al-Khalili and short walk away from the Market of the Tanners and other sites of Old Cairo. Walking around the 1,000-yr. old Al-Azhar university-mosque and visiting the shops in Old Cairo (not the ones for tourists in Khan al-Khalili) at night was captivating.

Sufis: Sufism is defined by its followers as the inner, mystical dimension of Islam. It's the name for the internal, esoteric aspect of the religion, as opposed to its more formal, ritualistic practices. The whirling dance or Sufi whirling that is associated with dervishes is best known in the West by practices (performances) of the Mevlevi (associated with the Persian poet, Rumi) order in Turkey. The formal ceremony is only one of many Sufi ceremonies performed to try to reach religious ecstasy. The name Mevlevi comes from the Persian poet, Rumi who was a dervish himself. This practice, though not intended as entertainment, has become a tourist attraction–which it seemed primarily to be in this case. The photo to the left displays a hand-sewn covering I bought in the market near Al-Azhar.

Mashrabiya is a type of projecting bay window, enclosed with carved wood latticework located on the second story or higher of a building. One of the major features of the mashrabiya is for privacy, an essential aspect of Arabic culture. A good view of the street (especially by women) can be obtained without being seen.

A Sufi cymbal clapper.

Mother of All Traffic Jams

Traffic Jam: Was going to a lecture; but the traffic on Qasr al-Aini, one of the oldest streets in Cairo, didn't go anywhere for the 45 minutes I waited before deciding to end the effort. This is unusual for this street, which has a lot of traffic but usually sees movement. The good news is that, while I was sitting in the 90° heat in a white taxi (which was supposed to have air conditioning but didn't), I had a gentlemanly taxi driver and met a resident of my neighborhood who runs an art gallery. She had asked to be taken on as a passenger and was delightful company for the time I waited. Her name is Sawsan (Lily) Salem. She worked for the Ministry of Social Affairs before resigning due to the bureaucracy. Now, she works for an ngo that assists the disabled and manages an art gallery. She had been to a training session of three weeks in Germany at one time and visited the United States. In Germany, she said she experienced a similar traffic hold up, since then Chancellor Helmut Kohl was traveling on the same highway leading to her hotel.

Gender and Migration

Migration: Went to lecture of one of the authors of this book, Mark Miller, in Oriental Hall at the American University in Cairo's Tahrir campus. Took me back to the days when I went there. However, now the whole campus is walled off (complete with revolutionary graffiti) and the street allowing access to its main entrance is obstructed by huge concrete blocks. Miller mentioned six trends converging since the 1970s that, in his opinion, make this the age of migration: 1) migration's globalization, 2) its acceleration, 3) its differentiation, 4) its growing feminization, 5) its politicization (and securitization), and 6) its proliferation. More than half of the migrants globally are women. My friend, Nazli Rizk, helped me navigate the remaining barriers, curvy streets, and evening traffic of Garden City on the way home. Wire barriers around the American Embassy went up after the 2003 Iraq War. Huge cement block ones appeared during the January 25 revolution and reappeared after the disturbances over the anti-Muslim film. In the 1960s, the Embassy used to be a cultural center. I remember going there on the 4th of July, easily walking in, for grilled dogs and other treats. Now it's more like a fortress. Whereas previously wrought iron fences allowed passers-by to view embassy gardens; now huge concrete barriers, bear testimony to a primary concern with security.

Fisherwoman on Nile with child (leaning over edge of boat on right).

Laying nets on the Nile.

Morning errands.

Waiting for the bus.

Entrance to my 30-story building. I live on the 14th floor. Bottom floor in Egypt is not counted as a floor, as in France.

What do Cairenes Do in a Day?

Most people in Cairo have daily routines and must maintain schedules and earn a living like others. To the left is how you reserve a parking space.

Women's day out.

Making a living.

Keeping your family healthy. Tomatoes and cucumbers are always plentiful for a good salad.

Hanging out.

Two occupations always needed in Cairo.

Grilling chicken shish tawook.

Kebabs ready for sale shortly.

Holding neighborhood discussions.

No supermarkets here.

The chicken shop.

Establishing a fashion identity.

Many vegetable rather than .com entrepreneurs.

This is one very popular way to set up a business in Cairo.

Definitely pre-Dominicks or Walmart.

Stopping at the local store on the way home from school.

Enjoying a snack. His mother was nearby readjusting her shopping load.

Birds for sale. Small dogs were available at a nearby shop.

Waiting for someone or minding the store?