Laid-back in Aswan: The atmosphere is definitely different; miles away from the turmoil in Cairo. The pollution is gone, the traffic is less, people seem to have time for each other. Some hassling occurs; but much less than in Luxor or Khan al-Khalili in Cairo. I'm sitting on the terrace in the Old Cataract Hotel. Could it be where Winston Churchill or Agatha Christie might have stood? The atmosphere is relaxing; partly I'm sure because there are so few tourists here. What a great time to be visiting such a appealing place, if one overlooks the struggles over the country's political future in the larger cities.
Sunset: From the terrace, I can see flocks of seagulls wing past against the ochre Nile embankments. At approximately 5:00 PM as the sun is setting, a wooden flute-player appears wearing a gold-braided crimson robe with matching fez and gold tassel. An assistant then puts reflective alabaster votive candle urns on each table. Agha Khan III, spiritual leader of the Ismaili sect of Islam, liked to winter here. I can see why. From the ease of a wicker chair, I see the swirling waters of the first cataract at the base of the hotel as feluccas drift lazily by and the sun slips down behind Saharan dunes. Sahara is the Arabic word for desert.
Old Market: The old market is one of the most enjoyable I've been to in Egypt. It's entered through various gates, is clean, and the vendors are restrained, especially given what I've witnessed elsewhere in the country. The less-crowded atmosphere and easier way of life make a visit an enjoyable experience, as I saw local people displaying their wares and buying them. Passages are wide enough for comfortable walking and have the traditional charm of overhead canopies spread out or withdrawn depending on the degree of sunlight and time of day.
Aswan Univerity: I investigated Aswan University, a branch of South Valley (Ganoob al-Wadi) University, about 15 kilometers outside the city. South Valley University was inaugurated in 1999 and has three branches; Aswan, Qena and Hurghada. The Aswan branch is quite small but has five faculties: Science, Education, Engineering, Arts, Social Works, and an Institute of Energy, so nothing really in my field. Most of the students appeared female. The few gathered near a bus stop were talkative and curious. An Aswan branch of Assyut University has a Faculty of Education and Faculty of Science.
A bread bakery is always busy in any city in Egypt.
Scooping the dough for shaping.
Shaping of the pieces. I was given part of a fresh one, still hot out of the oven. What ever tastes better.
Ready for sale.
Lining up to order and pay.
Getting the order right.
Waiting for pickup.
Egyptians eat a lot of bread, which is subsidized and cheap.
This is a big one.
Away we go.
Laying the bread out to cool.
Stacking this flatter type of bread.
How much do you want?
And you thought waiters only did this at Olive Garden?
A pretty scarf.
Discussing the chicken business. Women seemed to go out and about a lot. Some of them were walking by themselves, in groups with other women, or with children in tow.
Why the price is what it is today. Egypt is still very much a meat eating society.
Raise your own.
Busy market.
Waiting my turn.
It's fresh.
A nice shop.
The blue powder is indigo–used for bleaching.
Dried flowers that expand in water-filled urn.
How the weighing is done.
Dove, stuffed or unstuffed, is a typical Egyptian dish.
Neighborhood news?
Which size?
It's time for a new washtub.
Mint for sale, on the stem or grated.
Bustle in front of the beef market. Butchering being done to order.
Ready to go.
One bill too many? On steps in from of market mosque.
Colorful
mihrab in market mosque.
Pillar in mosque.
Personal devotions.
Readiness for prayer.
Mosque janitor.
Religious reading materials.
Lights of mosque chandelier.
Entrance to Al-Tabia Mosque. Hardly anyone was using this large mosque on a hill for daily prayers.
Mihrab and
minbar of mosque.
Women's section.
Chandelier.
Lantern.
View of non-touristic Aswan from Al-Tabia Mosque.
Housing developments in distance.
His curved knife is barely visible.
A nice load of produce.
An eager young lad.
Coptic cathedral near hotel.
Another view.
Main door of cathedral.
New Coptic Pope Tawadros II.
Women in church.
Women in church waiting for event.
In church.
Aswan.
Mural in main hotel restaurant.
Any botanists in the audience?
Ditto.
Sunset from hotel terrace.
This sunset was really spectacular. Most of you have seen sunsets like this, so use your imagination.
Egyptian cab drivers like to decorate their taxis.
Taxi decor.
Espresso decaffeinated coffee available in my room by the cup.
