Crisis in Egypt Continues

Draft Constitution: As the sun ascended over Cairo on Friday, an assembly charged with writing Egypt's new constitution gave its final approval after 21 hours of wrangling and the passage of all 234 articles. The draft, which the assembly plans to deliver to the president Saturday for his ratification, must be put to a nationwide referendum within 30 days. The Islamist-dominated assembly that has been working on the constitution for months raced to pass it. At the start of the voting, back-up members – mostly Islamists – were drafted in to replace 11 of those who were absent. However, the absence of inclusion was obvious in the nationally televised gathering. Of the 85 members in attendance, there was not a single Christian and only four women, all Islamists. Many of the men wore beards, the trademark of Muslim conservatives. Street clashes have been taking place between Islamists and their opponents. Opposition supporters are pouring into Tahrir today, Friday; and the Brotherhood has called a similar massive rally tomorrow, although has decided to move it from Tahrir to avoid friction. Bands of youths have been daily battling police on a road leading off the square and close to the U.S. Embassy. Church: Church services were held at St. Andrews at 10:00 AM, followed by coffee hour. The subsequent weekly Bible study was canceled due to intended demonstrations in Cairo. Tadros, a church member who teaches in the Faculty of Agriculture at Cairo University, planned to take part. He brings an Egyptian Coptic bread, called qurban, which is distributed after the service in the church. Qurban bread is round, decorated with a cross in the middle that is surrounded by twelve dots. The dots represent the twelve disciples of Jesus. In the Egyptian Coptic Church, it is very common for people visiting each other after mass to offer some. Sexual Harassment: The media has been depicting incidents of sexual harassment in Egypt; and the changed environment since the revolution has led to more outspoken criticism of it. However, it is still widespread. I experienced my own (relatively minor) version of it as I sought to exit a taxi, since the taxi driver wasn't acquainted with my destination and I couldn't provide a fuller explanation in Arabic. Apparently, he was annoyed at the looming loss of a fare.

October 6 University

Visit to October 6 University: Dr. and Professor Sally Michael Hanna, Associate Dean of Education at October 6 University, picked up at 7:15 AM for a day of lecturing at and visiting October 6 University. We arrived at the university at 9:30 AM, a bit later than usual due to heavier traffic. October 6 University (O6U) is one of the first private universities in Egypt. It reminded me of the growth of the College of DuPage, which began in cornfields and now has expanded to many times its original size. O6U was created in open desert with minimal surrounding construction in 1996. Now, it has many new facilities and is encircled by large apartment complexes and malls.

O6U Growth: Sally has worked at the university since 2000. She bought the shell for an apartment near the university, but has postponed developing it as well as moving in. It is unusual for a single woman to live alone in Egypt; and she has concerns for her safety in the current political environment. The university has 14 faculties providing the majority of specializations in the social, applied, and technological sciences. The student population is estimated at 1200, a third of which are international students comprising 47 nationalities. The university has signed cooperation agreements with many foreign and Egyptian academic institutions.

International Ties: In between lecturing* on American culture and values (individualism, time, directness/openness, privacy, competition/achievement, gender equality, social mobility, equality/informality, and taboos), I had a tour of the campus grounds and met Ambassador Dr. Kheireldin Abdellatif, Vice-Chairman of the Board of Trustees for International Strategies and Cultural Relations. He has been an ambassador (India, Oman), served in government posts, and now has an interest in establishing international ties at O6U. Sally and I spent some time discussing the possibility of such an initiative between COD and O6U with him.

Campus Tour: I received a replica of the university's insignia in a blue, velvet case. O6U has attractive landscaping: lawns, a round reflecting pool, a long row of tall palms, and a sculpture garden reflecting the country's ancient history. The latter is a mini-gallery, since students in the tourism faculty need access to a museum to complete their program. It's a stunning addition to the grounds, which are carefully maintained. Lunch was at a campus hotel restaurant for VIPS. Definitely, I felt like one after the three course meal, followed by a cappuccino picked up at the student union, before the second lecture. I am so appreciative of this inside look at an Egyptian institution of higher education. Attending classes where students are discussing the latest topics (postmodernism, etc.), electing a student union president, and hanging out in the student union amongst trendy mosaic murals and a chic café gave me hope that Egypt is making progress despite its difficulties and current political turmoil. We drove past the library on the commute back, an impressive building whose resources Sally says need improvement. Traffic was much lighter on the Corniche this evening; many people probably staying away due to clashes near the American Embassy. Since I live there, I had to return. Sally dropped me off right at my doorstep at 5 PM, just as she had picked me up nine and a half hours earlier in the day. My visit was an effort to introduce diversity in an Egypt which is battling for its identity, between two visions: those of democracy and Islamism. [*I did notice that male and female students sat on opposite sides of the room. When Sally asked us to come together for a group photo, the division remained with the male students careful not to make bodily contact with me.]

Courtyard at O6U with modern statue of Akhenaten.

Carol, Sally at O6U.

Pool at O6U.

Art Exhibition: Women of Egypt

Redemption (Giacomo Crescenzi): Mr. Maroun gave me a hair touchup at his shop Les Elites in Mohandeseen this morning. I learned that the U.S. embassy had called upon him to style Hillary Clinton's hair, when she was in Cairo and stayed at the Four Seasons Nile Plaza Hotel. Obviously, he's one of Cairo's best hair dressers. I was the first and only person at the shop at 11:00 AM. He said his business in this shop, near the downtown area, has been suffering due to the Tahrir protests. On the way back I stopped at Mesaha Art and Culture Center in Doqqi to see an art exhibition: Women of Egypt, sponsored by UN Women, CARE International, and the UN Information Centre (UNIC).

Egyptian Woman Carrying a Water Jug (Dina Hafez): Ten young, Egyptian artists explore the role of women in Egypt, their struggles, and their hopes for the future. I was saddened, made thoughtful, awed, and inspired viewing these artists' perspectives on women's condition in Egypt. Returning to Garden City, the taxi driver suggested I get off at the Qasr al-Nil bridge entrance to the Corniche, given the density and stupor of the traffic on the street. A crowd was gathered on the overpass facing Simon Bolivar Square watching for clashes between the demonstrators and police. Clashes have continued for the ninth day with fresh fights breaking out today, Wednesday, near Tahrir Square, as riot police fire tear gas and charge at Egyptian protesters angry about a move by President Muhammad Morsi to extend his powers. Dozens of police officers–backed by trucks firing tear gas–have advanced across Simon Bolivar Square, arresting many young people, some of whom have been beaten by officers. Protesters continue to throw stones at police. The latest clashes come after huge numbers of protesters swarmed into the square Tuesday night into this morning, hoping to revive a democratic uprising that swept the country's former despot from power nearly two years ago. Yesterday's turnout was larger and considered a huge success for the opposition in terms of the amount of people they were able to rally. Today, protesters are die-hards, who say that they will stay in the square until the president retracts his constitutional declaration.

Gossip.

Shattered, Muhammad Labib.

"Mute," Mai Amin.

Satirical sketch by Hany Shams. Islamic law allows a Muslim man to divorce his wife simply by repeating "I divorce you" three times.

Hany Shams depicting marriage as a prison for women.

Sketch by Hany Shams.

In Islamic law daughters inherit half as much as sons. This sketch (Hany Shams) depicts a man denying a woman even that, a common plight in patriarchal societies where men have ultimate control.

Ragda, the only other person at the exhibition while I was there. She's a recently graduated pharmacist, who is glad she has a good job and has ambitions to rise in her profession. She helped interpret the Arabic for me. I told her how impressed I have been with the information and service I've received, when I have felt it necessary to visit a pharmacy.

Exhibition poster.

Protests Not Too Bad Yet

Tuesday Muslim Brotherhood Demonstration Canceled: Received a message from U.S. Embassy (Nov. 27, 1:43 AM) stating: "Police battled protestors throughout the night and currently are engaged near Omar Makhram mosque near Tahrir Square. Protesting youth continue to throw both rock and molotovs as the confrontation has been scattered from the Embassy's North Gate to current location near the mosque." I went out to buy a flash drive from Radio Shack in Doqqi, since I have a presentation to give on Thursday. The tension seemed to have ramped down "a bit" after the Muslim Brotherhood canceled its planned demonstration for today. The Fulbright Office reversed an earlier decision and remained open. I left a bit after 10:00 AM, since Egyptians aren't usually morning people; and the traffic is lighter. I had no problems getting to Doqqi. On the return, my taxi driver claimed that he knew an area close to my next destination; but he ended dropping me off in Mohandeseen. He must still be learning the ropes of being a taxi driver. So after a few lost Egyptian pounds ($1.16, not that much) I finally got to the right street. The fare seemed high; but I had forgotten to look at the meter when I entered the car. I bought several clay figures of country Egyptian women at the shop, Lehnert and Landrock, on Sherif Street, and a framed photographic print of a Bedouin girl taken by these early 20th century photographers. Heading back home, I hailed a taxi that took the normal route right past Tahrir Square. There was no sign of any commotion in sight. Since I arrived home before noon, it's still early in the day. President Morsi tried to reassure Egyptian judges on Monday evening that a decree giving his decisions immunity from judicial review would only apply to “acts of sovereignty." Yet, legal experts said that "a meeting of the Islamist president and the Supreme Council of the Judiciary had not produced any changes to the wording of the decree (FT, 11/27/12)." Activists who planned to hold massive demonstrations on Tuesday are proceeding with them. At least they won't have their polar opposite, the Muslim Brotherhood, to confront. However, the police will be out. As events unravel in Egypt, I'll continue to follow the news.

Me in an entry to Al-Azhar Mosque. I was surprised I only had to use my scarf, since I had heard the gatekeepers were very strict regarding dress.

From Lolita Flowers. How do you comprehend a name like that in a country whose culture is trending more Islamic?

Al Minya

Bride of Upper Egypt: Al Minya (4 million pop.) is called the "Bride of Upper Egypt (Aroosa al-Sa'eed)" due to its significant location–close to the border of Upper and Lower Egypt, it provides a vital link between the two regions. The famous Egyptian feminist, Hoda Sharaawi, was born here–the daughter of a large landowner. It is about 153 miles south of Cairo. American Fulbrighters visited the city, an important agricultural and population center, over 3 days from November 23 to 25. Two security officers accompanied us on the trip down; and we were given protection throughout the journey. After the unification of Egypt by the ruler Menes in 3200 BC, this provincial capital of the 16th nome emerged as an important center of trade and has remained so since. Away from the Commotion: Quiet and more easy-going, Al-Minya offers a serene example of life along the Nile. Away from the hustle and bustle and traffic jams of Cairo and touristic centers, I enjoyed the lovely green areas found along the river. The sound of water pumps in the countryside sending water into cultivated fields populated by white ibis and the sight of farmers tending their fields with the occasional water buffalo and donkey gave me the welcome message that I was out of the big city.

Monastery of the Virgin Mary: First stop was the Monastery of the Virgin Mary, a church carved entirely from rock. It has been known by various names. It has sometimes been called the Monastery of the Pulley (Deir al-Baqara), because originally people entered the monastery from the base of the cliff up a crevice in the rock by means of a pulley. Gabal al-Tayr can be translated as the "mountain of the birds", so named because of the thousands of birds that live and nest in the cliffs. It is also called Gabal al-Kaff, meaning the "mountain of the hand". Tradition maintains that this was one of the locations that the Holy Family visited in their wanderings in Egypt. Accordingly, while passing by this place in a small boat headed up river, the Holy Virgin noticed an enormous rock coming loose from the mountain, which was about to fall on the boat and its occupants. By extending his hand, the child Jesus promptly intervened and stopped the rock from falling on the boat. The shape of the hand remained miraculously imprinted on the rock. It is said that the Church of the Holy Virgin was built by the empress Helena (mother of the Emperor Constantine) in memory of the passage of the Holy Family. Over half of the population of the city of Minya today is Coptic. Despite claims to a 4th century construction, the original edifice was probably a tomb dating from the late Roman period, which was transformed into a church during the 7th century. The Church of the Holy Virgin is a pilgrimage destination, which attracts annually tens of thousands of pilgrims, who come by feluccas, trains, busses and other transport from all over Egypt for the Feast (Moulid) of the Assumption of the Holy Virgin, which is celebrated on August 22nd. After dinner, a group of us went to Seven Eleven coffee house, definitely nothing like the 7-11's in the U.S. The place had a coffee house atmosphere with small, intimate tables, subdued lighting, and rubs of trendy people amidst artistic cursive writing on the walls.

Bani Hassan Tombs: Saturday was a 3-hour ferry trip with students from the Faculty of Tourism of El Minya University to see the Bani Hassan tombs on the eastern bank of the Nile. The students smothered us with Egyptian hospitality as they practiced their English. Dr. Engy Elkilany (Asst. Professor, Faculty of Tourism, Minya University) gave us a presentation on: "Ancient Egyptian Civilization."Our group visited several of 39 rock-cut tombs decorated with scenes depicting local and regional life during the Middle Kingdom. All of the tombs of Bani Hasan are Middle Kingdom, 11th and 12th Dynasties. Here the provincial elite of the Oryx Nome, the 16th Nome of Upper Egypt, carved themselves large, elaborately decorated tombs into the limestone cliffs near the provincial capital. Many details of everyday life of the ancient Egyptians can only be found on the tomb walls: fishing, hunting, weaving, war, bird trapping, voyages, and animal and bird scenes. The return boat ride downstream took half as long; the Nile flows south to north.

Dinner and Shisha: In the evening, Ahmad, a biology instructor at Minya University, picked some of us up for dinner at a restaurant, Jamaica, he owns with a friend. I had shrimp chicken with crab sauce. Among the sub-Saharan decor, a tall giraffe stood in a corner. A young girl dressed in a sequenced covered, white dress–skirt extended by lacy petticoats–was carried in by her extended family for a birthday party. They were video-recording their precious daughter's special day, much as parents do on their children's birthdays in the U.S. Then, we departed to have drinks (hot chocolate, coffee, tea) at a café he and the friend own in New Minya. So the evening ended with conversation and some blowing shisha smoke even out of their noses. The city is extending on the east rather than the west bank of the Nile, since the land is less productive agriculturally there. We saw huge apartment projects under construction with no one living in them yet. A night view of the city from the bluffs gave us another chance at stillness as we paused to view the stars and moon above a city with a calmer and more relaxed café culture compared to the craziness of Cairo. Last Day: On Sunday, dialogue took place between Egyptian students, faculty members, and American Fulbrighters at the Faculty of Arts at Minya University on: A) Experiences & Insights: The American Presidential Elections & The Egyptian Presidential Elections; and B) Cultural Misconceptions & How to Bridge the Cultural Divide Between Egypt and the U.S. During the debriefing, Egyptian students especially voiced concern about what they saw as the negative images presented of Arabs in the media abroad.

Green fields along Nile near Al Minya.

Neighborhood near Monastery of Virgin Mary.

Part of the security detail at the tombs. Had a police boat escort with the ferry ride.

Bluffs and green banks of Nile as seen from ferry.

Outside Bani Hassan tombs near Minya.

Me conversing with Egyptian students on ferry.

Local transporting harvest near Bani Hassan tombs.

Another Pharaoh?

Morsi Seizes Power: Just after the international community hailed President Morsi of the Muslim Brotherhood as a most powerful broker in ending Israeli-Hamas hostilities, he has suddenly issued a declaration banning any challenge to his decisions. Opposition leader Muhammad al-Baradei has accused him of acting like a "new pharaoh." Morsi made the presidential declaration at 6 pm today (Thursday, November 22), in a constitutional declaration in which he also appointed a new prosecutor general, gave two more months for the Constituent Assembly to complete its work and forbade judicial bodies from dissolving it or the Shura. I was going to have stuffed pigeon (hamam mahshi) at a nearby restaurant to celebrate Thanksgiving but am feeling under-the-weather, so didn't go. Now I'm glad I refrained, I would be having trouble digesting it.

Charming Sharm

Snorkeling in Sharm al-Sheikh: Had a great few days at Sharm al-Sheikh near the Red Sea. Located at the tip of the Sinai, Sharm and the area has the warmest water in the world and is famous for its coral reefs and marine life. I went snorkeling off the hotel's jetty and was amazed at the fish and coral gardens visible right there. The weather is perfect at Sharm this time of year. I saw more species of fish swimming off the jetty than I did in a glass-bottomed boat here last year. Enjoyed flying over the Red Sea, the rugged mountains of the Sinai, and the Straits of Tiran (on return). Wonderful respite: What a great break from the troubles of the region such as the train wreck in Assyut, Egypt, and the hostilities that broke out between Israel and Hamas over a week ago (Nov. 21 marks day #8). The Assyut wreck cost the lives of 50 schoolchildren. Mike and I took the train to and and from Luxor. We were well aware of the system's dilapidated condition, even though we took a foreigners', first class overnight sleeping car. Egypt's railway system is the world's second oldest, constructed by an English engineer in the 2nd half of the 19th century. It needs fundamental reforms in infrastructure and safety measures to stop recurring train accidents. Even though the conditions of trains are deplorable, Egyptians use the railways, since they are considered safer than microbuses in which road accidents lead to many deaths. The whole system needs overhauling.

Tower above hotel lobby.

Hotel lounge lantern.

Lantern on hotel grounds.

Tiran Island as seen from hotel. It was captured by Israel during the Suez Crisis of 1956 and restored to Egypt in 1957. A United Nations peacekeeping force was subsequently stationed there until the 1967 Six-Day War when it was recaptured by Israel. Sharm al-Sheikh remained under Israeli control until the Sinai peninsula was restored again to Egypt in 1982 after the Israel-Egypt Peace Treaty of 1979.

Fountains on one of hotel's terraces. Hotel reminded me a bit of the Alhambra in Granada, Spain, but with a lot less character and minus its Arabic inscriptions, and arabesque geometrical patterns.

Fountain in front of room.

Most have their own flower photos; but who can resist a pretty blossom?

Another.

Another.

Breakfast visitor.

Hawk on well-watered hotel grounds. Not many places of green in the Sinai.

Poster at baggage retrieval at Cairo airport.

Sunrise over Moqattam Hills Hides Uncertainty

Uncertainty: As I watch the sun rise over the Moqattam Hills which frame Cairo's eastern skyline, it is hard to imagine that people are being killed daily in Syria, others are demonstrating defiantly in Jordan over the cancellation of fuel subsidies, and that Israel and Gaza are dangerously trading rocket fire. The latter issue is a warning that it is going to be much harder for an Egypt which is democratizing to maintain its working relationship with Israel than it was for an authoritarian Egypt. Under Mubarak's rule, regional leaders did not have to worry too much about what their own people thought. President Morsi could turn out to be more of a pragmatist than his opponents thought; and he may find reasons to maintain working ties with the United States as it continues its longstanding commitment to Israel. Still, if hostility towards Israel and support for the Palestinians grows among the people of a democratic Egypt, it is realistic to think that this outlook will become reflected in the country's foreign policy. Hardly any one foresaw the upheavals of the Arab Spring; and certainly no one can say what this region will look like when it finally calms down again. Demonstrations: Hundreds of Egyptian protesters converged on the Arab League's Cairo headquarters on Thursday evening (Nov. 15) to demand an immediate halt to ongoing Israeli military operations in the Gaza Strip. Groups from across Egypt's political spectrum are calling for a Friday mass rally in support of the besieged Gaza Strip. Brotherhood's Go Slow Approach: Morsi's pragmatic approach "is also due to the Muslim Brotherhood's belief that it must complete its project of Islamizing Egypt before it can pursue its regional ambitions. Indeed, as Mohamed Sudan, secretary for foreign relations of the Brotherhood's political party, said earlier this week, Morsi is pursuing the right path towards Israel because he is 'cancelling normalization with the Zionist entity gradually'" (Eric Trager, The Gaza Invasion: Will It Destroy Israel's Relationship With Egypt?, The Atlantic, November 15, 2012).

The Constitution

Constitution: Here I am waiting in Hall #5 of the Faculty of Economics and Political Science at Cairo University (Wed., Nov. 14) for a five hour series of three panels to begin on: The Constitution: Hopes and Challenges. Although the session was all in Arabic, Fulbright in Egypt provided translation; so those of us not entirely fluent in Arabic could take advantage of the opportunity. The panelists did not offer specific recommendations for the Constituent Assembly, currently tasked with drafting the constitution, but spoke generally about the drafting process, criticized some of the articles already proposed, and talked about rights that are important to include in a constitution. Professor Mustapha Kamel El-Sayed indicated that he thought the two best Egyptian constitutions (those of 1923 and 1954) were not drafted by parliaments. Based on Egypt's new independent status, a new Egyptian Constitution was promulgated in April 1923 by a 30-member legislative committee that included representatives of political parties, as well as national movement leaders. King Fuad I's (1917-1936) most conspicuous disadvantage during his 20-year rule and in political discussions at that time was that he didn’t speak Arabic. While the presentations could have been more in-depth, the fact that Egyptian intellectuals were conversing about constitutionalism and rights and calling for public participation was inspirational.

Shopping: Today (Thurs., Nov. 15) is Mike's last day in Egypt, so we went shopping in Khan al-Khalili. On the way, a stand was giving away free ta'miyya patties and bread. I had some; they were fresh and delicious. Since the area is close to Al-Azhar University/Mosque, this could be a public service. It was offered to any passerby, not just the poor. Mike found the doll (aroosa [bride]) a colleague wanted for her daughter; and we had coffee and hibiscus tea at the famous Fishawi's Café. Then, across the street in a two-story building in the traditional market, he purchased towels make from celebrated Egyptian long-staple cotton. We had Obelisk red wine (2011), produced by Egypt's Modern VinArts, to toast Mike's departure back at my apartment as the sun was setting.

Bookstore outside Cairo University.

Students can be students.

Female students standing on a podium to speak for their cause.

Having supper before evening classes.

Fashion boots in Egypt as well.

A Muslim sister at constitution sessions.

Panel on: Citizenship and Public Freedoms (Focusing on Women's Rights). No women's rights were discussed, however.

A sign in the Cairo metro saying: Daughters of the Future. The metro stop named after Mubarak was quickly renamed (new signs appearing immediately), The Martyrs [Al-Shohadaa] (الشهداء), after the revolution.

Entrance to Al-Azhar University/Mosque.

Al-Azhar, the oldest Islamic university in the world–over 1,000 years old.

Observant Muslim at Al-Azhar.

Finding refuge at Al-Azhar.