Afresh in Aswan

Laid-back in Aswan: The atmosphere is definitely different; miles away from the turmoil in Cairo. The pollution is gone, the traffic is less, people seem to have time for each other. Some hassling occurs; but much less than in Luxor or Khan al-Khalili in Cairo. I'm sitting on the terrace in the Old Cataract Hotel. Could it be where Winston Churchill or Agatha Christie might have stood? The atmosphere is relaxing; partly I'm sure because there are so few tourists here. What a great time to be visiting such a appealing place, if one overlooks the struggles over the country's political future in the larger cities.

Sunset: From the terrace, I can see flocks of seagulls wing past against the ochre Nile embankments. At approximately 5:00 PM as the sun is setting, a wooden flute-player appears wearing a gold-braided crimson robe with matching fez and gold tassel. An assistant then puts reflective alabaster votive candle urns on each table. Agha Khan III, spiritual leader of the Ismaili sect of Islam, liked to winter here. I can see why. From the ease of a wicker chair, I see the swirling waters of the first cataract at the base of the hotel as feluccas drift lazily by and the sun slips down behind Saharan dunes. Sahara is the Arabic word for desert.

Old Market: The old market is one of the most enjoyable I've been to in Egypt. It's entered through various gates, is clean, and the vendors are restrained, especially given what I've witnessed elsewhere in the country. The less-crowded atmosphere and easier way of life make a visit an enjoyable experience, as I saw local people displaying their wares and buying them. Passages are wide enough for comfortable walking and have the traditional charm of overhead canopies spread out or withdrawn depending on the degree of sunlight and time of day.

Aswan Univerity: I investigated Aswan University, a branch of South Valley (Ganoob al-Wadi) University, about 15 kilometers outside the city. South Valley University was inaugurated in 1999 and has three branches; Aswan, Qena and Hurghada. The Aswan branch is quite small but has five faculties: Science, Education, Engineering, Arts, Social Works, and an Institute of Energy, so nothing really in my field. Most of the students appeared female. The few gathered near a bus stop were talkative and curious. An Aswan branch of Assyut University has a Faculty of Education and Faculty of Science.

A bread bakery is always busy in any city in Egypt.

Scooping the dough for shaping.

Shaping of the pieces. I was given part of a fresh one, still hot out of the oven. What ever tastes better.

Ready for sale.

Lining up to order and pay.

Getting the order right.

Waiting for pickup.

Egyptians eat a lot of bread, which is subsidized and cheap.

This is a big one.

Away we go.

Laying the bread out to cool.

Stacking this flatter type of bread.

How much do you want?

And you thought waiters only did this at Olive Garden?

A pretty scarf.

Discussing the chicken business. Women seemed to go out and about a lot. Some of them were walking by themselves, in groups with other women, or with children in tow.

Why the price is what it is today. Egypt is still very much a meat eating society.

Raise your own.

Busy market.

Waiting my turn.

It's fresh.

A nice shop.

The blue powder is indigo–used for bleaching.

Dried flowers that expand in water-filled urn.

How the weighing is done.

Dove, stuffed or unstuffed, is a typical Egyptian dish.

Neighborhood news?

Which size?

It's time for a new washtub.

Mint for sale, on the stem or grated.

Bustle in front of the beef market. Butchering being done to order.

Ready to go.

One bill too many? On steps in from of market mosque.

Colorful mihrab in market mosque.

Pillar in mosque.

Personal devotions.

Readiness for prayer.

Mosque janitor.

Religious reading materials.

Lights of mosque chandelier.

Entrance to Al-Tabia Mosque. Hardly anyone was using this large mosque on a hill for daily prayers.

Mihrab and minbar of mosque.

Women's section.

Chandelier.

Lantern.

View of non-touristic Aswan from Al-Tabia Mosque.

Housing developments in distance.

His curved knife is barely visible.

A nice load of produce.

An eager young lad.

Coptic cathedral near hotel.

Another view.

Main door of cathedral.

New Coptic Pope Tawadros II.

Women in church.

Women in church waiting for event.

In church.

Aswan.

Mural in main hotel restaurant.

Any botanists in the audience?

Ditto.

Sunset from hotel terrace.

This sunset was really spectacular. Most of you have seen sunsets like this, so use your imagination.

Egyptian cab drivers like to decorate their taxis.

Taxi decor.

Espresso decaffeinated coffee available in my room by the cup.

Aswan

Aswan: I'm waiting for "high tea" on the terrace of the Old Cataract Hotel, while the sun sets over the Nile. The hotel has welcomed the likes of Winston Churchill, Agatha Christie, and Tsar Nicholas II, Maybe some of their luster will rub off on me. I'm staying in a new section decorated in nouveau Egyptian, which so far I've found more intriguing than really satisfying. Aswan is situated on the Nile's first cataract–important since ancient times, because navigation to the delta was possible from this location without encountering a barrier. In Aswan the Nile is at its most scenic, flowing through amber desert and granite rocks, around verdant islands covered in palm groves and tropical plants. A branch of South Valley University is here; so I hope to learn a bit about it.

Nubia: Associated with the Nubian people, a distinct ethnic group with their own language and customs, the town is more African in character than the cities of the north. I can look out from my hotel balcony on Elephantine Island. According to Egyptian mythology, here was the dwelling place of Khnum, the ram-headed god of the cataracts, who guarded and controlled the waters of the Nile from caves beneath the island. Today, most of the southern tip of the island is taken up by the ruins of the Temple of Khnum.A sizable population of Nubian people live in three villages in the island's middle section.

Crisis in Egypt Continues

Draft Constitution: As the sun ascended over Cairo on Friday, an assembly charged with writing Egypt's new constitution gave its final approval after 21 hours of wrangling and the passage of all 234 articles. The draft, which the assembly plans to deliver to the president Saturday for his ratification, must be put to a nationwide referendum within 30 days. The Islamist-dominated assembly that has been working on the constitution for months raced to pass it. At the start of the voting, back-up members – mostly Islamists – were drafted in to replace 11 of those who were absent. However, the absence of inclusion was obvious in the nationally televised gathering. Of the 85 members in attendance, there was not a single Christian and only four women, all Islamists. Many of the men wore beards, the trademark of Muslim conservatives. Street clashes have been taking place between Islamists and their opponents. Opposition supporters are pouring into Tahrir today, Friday; and the Brotherhood has called a similar massive rally tomorrow, although has decided to move it from Tahrir to avoid friction. Bands of youths have been daily battling police on a road leading off the square and close to the U.S. Embassy. Church: Church services were held at St. Andrews at 10:00 AM, followed by coffee hour. The subsequent weekly Bible study was canceled due to intended demonstrations in Cairo. Tadros, a church member who teaches in the Faculty of Agriculture at Cairo University, planned to take part. He brings an Egyptian Coptic bread, called qurban, which is distributed after the service in the church. Qurban bread is round, decorated with a cross in the middle that is surrounded by twelve dots. The dots represent the twelve disciples of Jesus. In the Egyptian Coptic Church, it is very common for people visiting each other after mass to offer some. Sexual Harassment: The media has been depicting incidents of sexual harassment in Egypt; and the changed environment since the revolution has led to more outspoken criticism of it. However, it is still widespread. I experienced my own (relatively minor) version of it as I sought to exit a taxi, since the taxi driver wasn't acquainted with my destination and I couldn't provide a fuller explanation in Arabic. Apparently, he was annoyed at the looming loss of a fare.

October 6 University

Visit to October 6 University: Dr. and Professor Sally Michael Hanna, Associate Dean of Education at October 6 University, picked up at 7:15 AM for a day of lecturing at and visiting October 6 University. We arrived at the university at 9:30 AM, a bit later than usual due to heavier traffic. October 6 University (O6U) is one of the first private universities in Egypt. It reminded me of the growth of the College of DuPage, which began in cornfields and now has expanded to many times its original size. O6U was created in open desert with minimal surrounding construction in 1996. Now, it has many new facilities and is encircled by large apartment complexes and malls.

O6U Growth: Sally has worked at the university since 2000. She bought the shell for an apartment near the university, but has postponed developing it as well as moving in. It is unusual for a single woman to live alone in Egypt; and she has concerns for her safety in the current political environment. The university has 14 faculties providing the majority of specializations in the social, applied, and technological sciences. The student population is estimated at 1200, a third of which are international students comprising 47 nationalities. The university has signed cooperation agreements with many foreign and Egyptian academic institutions.

International Ties: In between lecturing* on American culture and values (individualism, time, directness/openness, privacy, competition/achievement, gender equality, social mobility, equality/informality, and taboos), I had a tour of the campus grounds and met Ambassador Dr. Kheireldin Abdellatif, Vice-Chairman of the Board of Trustees for International Strategies and Cultural Relations. He has been an ambassador (India, Oman), served in government posts, and now has an interest in establishing international ties at O6U. Sally and I spent some time discussing the possibility of such an initiative between COD and O6U with him.

Campus Tour: I received a replica of the university's insignia in a blue, velvet case. O6U has attractive landscaping: lawns, a round reflecting pool, a long row of tall palms, and a sculpture garden reflecting the country's ancient history. The latter is a mini-gallery, since students in the tourism faculty need access to a museum to complete their program. It's a stunning addition to the grounds, which are carefully maintained. Lunch was at a campus hotel restaurant for VIPS. Definitely, I felt like one after the three course meal, followed by a cappuccino picked up at the student union, before the second lecture. I am so appreciative of this inside look at an Egyptian institution of higher education. Attending classes where students are discussing the latest topics (postmodernism, etc.), electing a student union president, and hanging out in the student union amongst trendy mosaic murals and a chic café gave me hope that Egypt is making progress despite its difficulties and current political turmoil. We drove past the library on the commute back, an impressive building whose resources Sally says need improvement. Traffic was much lighter on the Corniche this evening; many people probably staying away due to clashes near the American Embassy. Since I live there, I had to return. Sally dropped me off right at my doorstep at 5 PM, just as she had picked me up nine and a half hours earlier in the day. My visit was an effort to introduce diversity in an Egypt which is battling for its identity, between two visions: those of democracy and Islamism. [*I did notice that male and female students sat on opposite sides of the room. When Sally asked us to come together for a group photo, the division remained with the male students careful not to make bodily contact with me.]

Courtyard at O6U with modern statue of Akhenaten.

Carol, Sally at O6U.

Pool at O6U.