Egypt Always Multicultural

Egypt's Identity: Dr. Mounira Soliman, Associate Professor of English at Cairo University, explained to us at the orientation session (9/18) that Egypt has always been a multicultural state. Paintings from the tomb of Seti I led African Americans to discuss the contribution of black Africans to this formation. Some important dates from Egypt's history reflecting this diversity are: 3200 BC, Union of the Southern and Northern Kingdoms; 525 BC, Invasion of the Persians; 27 AD, Establishment of Christianity; 640 AD, Arab Conquest; 1798-1801 AD, French Invasion. Thus, Egyptian culture reflects Pharaonic, Nubian, Islamic, Hellenistic, Bedouin, Jewish, Christian, and Western influences. No one culture was able to totally dominate but persisted alongside others. She pointed out that Karnak was a city (ancient Thebes) as well as a temple complex; it represents a way of life. The deities represented range from some of the earliest worshiped to those worshiped much later in the history of ancient Egyptian culture. In Alexandria, Pompeii's Pillar sits side-by-side with a sphinx. The Belle Epoque architecture of downtown Cairo reflects the building of the Khedive Isma'il and French inspiration. Today, most celebrations have a religious orientation.

Lanterns special for Ramadan have been a tradition since the Fatimids, although most today are made in China. Sweets are emphasized during the Eid al-Fitr (Little Bairum) and meat during the Eid al-Adha (Festival of Sacrifice, Big Bairum) ending the pilgrimage season. Egyptian Culture: Three basic aspects of Egyptian culture are: 1) religion, 2) family, and 3) kinship. In speeches, President Morsi has called the Egyptian people his family and his tribe. What happened to citizenship? The wealth, honor, and family name are crucial. Roles within the family are assigned with a man the head. The group is valued over the individual.

Oral Tradition: Oral tradition is still very vibrant in Egypt in terms of 1) myths, 2) folktales and epics, 3) proverbs, and 4) songs. A famous epic (sira) poet is Sayyed al-Dawi. Egyptians believe in destiny as part of their religion. A celebrated Sufi chanter is Sheikh Yassin al-Tahami. Sufis engage in madeh (songs of praise), zikr (chanting of sacred phrases),naurval (whirling), etc. The Nubian Nour Group is a well-known group of drummers. Presently, the zar (Sufi religious performance) has become nonreligious, giving a new twist to an old practice. Cultural Schizophrenia: Are Egyptians torn between too many cultures? Is an Egyptian ancient or modern, authentic or hip? What is Egyptian identity? Egypt is a multicultural place, a cultural mélange, a mix of all the cultures who have lived in the area. In spite of this, an Egyptian identity exists, a coherent sense of a country and a people who share the same land (geography) and history.

Love for Verdi's Aïda

One More Time for a Favorite Opera: When I heard Aïda by Guiseppe Verdi was opening the season at the Cairo Opera House, I had to go. The opera is a favorite with Egyptians as well as international audiences. My ticket cost 75 LE (Egyptians pounds), $12.50. The seat is near the front. However, my driver said if I arrive early I can probably get a better one. Egyptians aren't stand-in-line and keep-to-your-exact-spot types of persons. Egyptians love the opera for its themes and performance history, which draws world attention to the opera and Egypt. Usually a large-scale production, Aïda recalls ancient Egyptian history and mythology, setting the stage with monumental sets of temples on the Nile River shores, Egyptian high priests, Ethiopian slaves, large crowds and even camels and elephants. Isma'il the Magnificent: The opera is in four acts with the Italian libretto by Antonio Ghislanzoni, based on a scenario written by French Egyptologist Auguste Mariette. It was commissioned by the Khedive Isma'il Pasha and performed first at the Khedivial Opera House in Cairo on 24 December 1871. The opera was thereafter performed on a number of spectacular stages in Egypt, including at the new Cairo Opera House, against the backdrop of the Deir Al-Bahari Temple in Luxor, and in front of the Sphinx in Giza. This year the opera opens in the Main Hall of the Cairo Opera House in Zamalek. Isma'il Pasha, sharing the ambitious outlook of his grandfather, Muhammad Ali Pasha, greatly modernized Egypt and Sudan during his reign. His vision can be seen in a statement he made in 1879: "My country is no longer in Africa; we are now part of Europe. It is therefore natural for us to abandon our former ways and to adopt a new system adapted to our social conditions." Today's Egyptians seem to be wary of the West. Islam has rebounded to assert its prevalence in daily life and proven its utility as a political vehicle. Yet, Egyptians and others continue to love Verdi's Aïda. Let's see what I learn about who gets a seat where at the Cairo Opera House this evening–and on what scale this production will be done.

View of the Citadel (El-Qala): Just realized I have a view of the Citadel from my back window. A view of the Nile (over which the sun sets every evening in a dramatic display) from the front and a Cairene panorama including the Citadel from the back. How spectacular! I had always been looking directly at the horizon formed by the Moqattam Hills and didn't realize that the Citadel lies on them just below the distant skyline. OK, the picture's not so great given the smog. The Citadel was built in the 12th century by Saladin to protect the old city of Cairo from the Crusaders. It has become and remains an iconic image of Cairo today. Opera Comments: A fellow Fulbrighter, Shawn Lent, is teaching at the High Institute of Ballet, so we got a backstage tour before the performance by her dean. Met one of the principal ballerinas, the director of Aïda, Abdel Moneim Kamel, and the assistant director, Magdy Saber. Also, due to Shawn, I got a really good seat, close to the center in the third row. She had free tickets; and a friend couldn't make it. Most of the Egyptians shifted their seating during the first intermission; but upon our return from refreshments, there were still two places left in the same row–directly in the center this time. Artificial elephant tusks were carried in for the triumphal march. Many people left early.

Seeking Art but Found Bread

Security Alert: The Embassy has sent out a weekend security notice. "There is no information at this time suggesting possible protest activity directed against the Embassy over the weekend." "However, the... community should continue to maintain strong situational awareness... Media sources are reporting the release earlier this week of cartoons of the Prophet Muhammad by a French magazine that could spark protest activity, particularly against French interests in the region." So far have only heard via CNN about protests in Islamabad related to the anti-Islam video. Good Bread: Since I was between appointments and had finished responding to inquiries from the press (Tribune Local, Glen Ellyn Patch, Naperville Sun), I decided to visit a couple of art galleries today, only to find that they were closed. No wonder no one answered my phone calls. However, I used the opportunity to explore the neighborhood, which is upscale by Cairo standards.

I found a bakery with really good bread. White buns and croissants, so not exactly healthy. However, I had tired of peanut butter on a version of whole wheat baladi (pita) bread. Other processed loaves were the Egyptian version of Wonder Bread. So, this will be a welcome treat. Since traffic is so hectic here in Cairo, I walked back to my apartment in Garden City (the embassy district) via Tahrir and Qasr el-Aini Street. I saw the previous campus of the American University in Cairo (AUC), where I studied Arabic several decades ago. It was developed around a palace (that of Khairy Pasha) and constructed in the neo-Mamluk architectural style with landscaped grounds covering several acres. I'm glad I had the privilege of attending the old campus. The new campus in New Cairo, far removed from downtown, is a Disneyesque version of modern Arab architecture, complete with all the latest in educational technology. A man was standing on a curb, shouting, and gesturing toward the sky by the corner Hardee's close to the campus. However, this could have been Times Square with a few changes of character. Right next to the university is also the wall that has been blocked off so protesters can't access the U.S. Embassy from Tahrir Square. So I took my personal photo of the wall (posted here). Qasr el-Aini Street is one that starts at Tahrir, goes past AUC, all the way through Garden City, and close to my apartment building.

I passed The Shoura (Consultative) Assembly building (see photo). There were guards but none seemed very vigilant. No one noticed my picture-taking. A march with banners was taking place in the street nearby. This is the Egyptian bicameral parliament's upper chamber and less powerful. The lower house has been suspended. The Supreme Constitutional Court is set to issue a decision soon on whether even The Shoura Assembly has been properly elected. The weather is a few degrees cooler than the hottest of summer; and I could stock up on supplies (chocolate, bananas, medicine, etc.). All on the one street. Taxis were in line at one petrol station, a reminder of the fuel shortage hitting the country. The cash-deprived government can't pay its foreign energy producers, who then restrict the supply driving up the cost of gasoline in Egypt. Men were gathering to visit and smoke shisha at a few open air cafés. Finally, I was at the pharmacy on the street, which marks the turnoff to the curved streets in Garden City that lead to the Belmont building, the one I live in. The building gets its moniker from a large advertisment for Belmont cigarettes, which used to be on the roof. This was Cairo's second skyscraper built in 1958. Naoum Shebib was the architect structural engineer, and contractor as he was for the city's first high-rise. Eventually, I'm home.

Women on the Move in Middle East (Notes)

Saudi Women: Saudi women can now travel within the Gulf states without needing the approval of their guardians. They will be allowed to travel among the countries of the Gulf using their electronic passports. Previously, women had to carry "yellow cards" during their travel, indicating that they had received their guardian's approval. This decision comes only ten days after a recommendation from the supreme cabinet committee in Saudi Arabia, proposing that Saudi women carry national IDs (which Saudi men do) to preclude illegal impersonation (Daily News Egypt, 9/20/12).

Um Bassem: Egypt's First Woman Plumber: Seven years ago, Um Bassem, a housewife living in a poor district, lost her husband, leaving her with four children to raise on her own. Um Bassem’s case is being used as an example by the "Work is like Worshipping" initiative, undertaken by a group of young people in an attempt to attack the unemployment problem in Egypt. Um Bassem's job track got started when she needed some plumbing done and felt angry at having to let a strange men into her home to fix the problem. She thought to herself, "why don’t I try and do it myself?” She then decided to train as a plumber and found the ideal course, organised by a German agency. She applied, got accepted and passed. “I was the only woman among 20 men. Despite the ribald remarks they made, I stuck at it and passed. Many householders, especially women, much prefer getting me rather than a man to deal with their leaks,” emphasizes Um Bassem, who is now the proud owner of two shops that sell plumbing accessories (Maryam Raafat, The Egyptian Gazette, 9/20/12). Observation: Escalators in Egypt start when you step on them; does that save electricity?

Media Sensationalism

Facts: "We know that some Muslims were truly outraged by the anti-Islam video uploaded to YouTube that sparked protests in the Middle East. Some of those protests were peaceful, while others turned violent and deadly. We also know that plenty of Muslims were horrified by the killing of Ambassador Christopher Stevens and three other Americans in Libya. The U.S. government is looking into whether this atrocity was premeditated or not." Search for Ratings: "What is disheartening is that some of the media coverage of the protests embodies the worst form of sensational journalism. There were headlines and stories that made it seem as though millions of Muslims across the world had taken to the streets, with Muslim countries in riots and businesses closed." "In Egypt, a nation of over 80 million, about 2,000 people protested on Friday. Of those protesters, a few hundred were arrested by the police." "A small number of protesters should not define the entire Muslim population of over a billion." "The media should know this and report the truth accordingly. "The U.S. media...need to act in a more responsible way. It appears that our media are more focused on ratings than facts and accuracy. While the media jump on the story and then quickly move on to another story, their impact in defining a people and a culture can be lasting." All of these comments are from: Media don't get #MuslimRage, Dean Obeidallah, Special to CNN, September 20, 2012.

Pharmacy Experience

Dissimilarity and Consistency:I had a swollen ankle so wondered if I could get some naproxen at my local pharmacy. You need a prescription for it in the U.S. I wanted to cut down the inflammation, since I will be doing some walking, which had brought it on in the first place. Egyptian pharmacies sell Raid (anti-insect spray) as well as products we're more accustomed to: drugs, hand sanitizer,shampoo, lotion, etc. I gave the pharmacist (usually a she, who knows quite a bit of English and has training) the English name; and she looked up the Egyptian equivalent in a handbook. The Egyptian version is called Maxipan and includes naproxen (200 mg) and diffusal (200 mg). Egyptian pharmacists can be quite helpful if you know what you want; they aren't diagnosticians. My packet did not have an expired date and was kept in an air-conditioned shop; so I thought I did quite well. The cost was $1.50 for 10 caplets. The medicine had been manufactured by the Tenth of Ramadan Company in Sixth of October City. Those are the dates Sadat launched the 1973 war against Israel. Strange Glasses: The family practitioner for the U.S. Embassy (he can't treat us but offered advice at yesterday's orientation) wore eyeglass frames with magnets at bridges for attachment between the lenses. I had never seen these before. He called them his "old man" glasses. A string kept them around his neck once he had them on. I really didn't see the advantage. Temperature Change: The high today was 91°. When you're used to temperatures in the upper 90*s, that can seem like a welcome change. At about 7:30 PM, it was down to 84° with a slight breeze. When temperatures are in the extremes, one becomes sensitized to even slight changes. Probably due to the warm weather, Egyptians get up later (10-11:00 AM) and stay up much later than we're accustomed to. Politeness: At the orientation yesterday, I learned that if you add hadritak (-ik for women), you will get much more willing responses when requesting information or assistance. I tried it on the waiter in the nearby hotel, when asking for the bill; and I could see his immediate attention. Egyptians are very polite because of their religious principles; and this term is a way of being extremely polite. Of course, there are some Egyptians who don't live up to these standards, as there are rude people in every society. I can feel that I'm putting into practice some of the advice I had learned in books in the U.S. It makes a difference to actually be living in a country and interacting with its people on a daily basis.

First Real Meal

Al Azhar Park:Tuesday was an all-day orientation at the Fulbright Binational Commission in Egypt office. Most interesting report was probably that of the Deputy Chief of Mission of the U.S. Embassy in Cairo, Marc J. Sievers. He was there as the demonstrations began. Sievers judged the situation manageable from the beginning. He criticized the media for being so poorly informed. The situation in Cairo was different from that in Libya where the Ambassador and three consulate staff members were killed. He thinks this episode will pass as one more of the unpredictable events occurring in the region. He pointed out that we have an advantage as Fulbrighters, since we can interact with the mainstream and don't stand out as government employees. The highlight of the day was an evening dinner at Studio Misr Restaurant in Al Azhar Park. I descended several levels (decorated with beautiful Arab architecture) to a veranda that overlooks gardens with a series of fountain pools pointing towards the Citadel. Our group enjoyed an Egyptian meal out on the terrace, overlooking beautiful landscaped lawns with the lighted scene of the Citadel in the distance. Opened in 2005 with the support of the Aga Khan Foundation, Al-Azhar Park sits on top of a 500 year old garbage dump, next to a the wall marking the edge of the tenth-century palace city of the Fatimids (ancestors of the Aga Khan). The 74 acres of green, interspersed with marble plazas, a reflecting pond, and shaded gazebos, have become Cairo's version of Central Park– a green, public oasis in an otherwise urban desert. What a gift! Together with the lunch buffet on the roof of the mission, the dinner was the first real meal some of us had had in a long time.